16 décembre 2007
The story ...of the Dijon mustard
The story...
...of the Dijon mustard
It is not quite as ancient as the world, but it has been part of the oldest Mediterranean cultures. For the Egyptians, Greeks and Romans mustard enhanced the flavors in food and enflamed the senses. The Greeks and the Romans called it Sinapsis. They used to grind and add the grains to food.
Originating in the Mediterranean basin, this herbaceous plant with bright green leaves and vibrant yellow petals, produces fruits containing several grains of mustard. The grains of wild mustard or black mustard, sinapis nigra, are ground and mixed with vinegar, grape must, wine or aromatic plants to make the dietary mustard. The word Mustard has its origins in the Latin "Mustum Ardens" which means burning grape must, because the Romans diluted the ground mustard grains in grape must. The grape must is the grape juice that has not been fermented yet, and which gives quite a spiced up flavor to mustard. In the Celt language it was known as Mwstardd, in England it became Mustard and in Norway Mustardhr whereas in Italy they kept the Latin word Sinapis.
Mustard is not quite as ancient as the world
In the first century AD it was found on every Roman table. Apicius even created mustard-based sauces to serve with certain dishes. Mustard was introduced in France when the Romans invaded Gaul. It was adopted easily as wine, vinegar and mustard got along very well.
Manuscripts exist from those days where the words Mustum, Mustardum and Mustarum appear, replacing the word Sinapis, as they substituted a new wine called Mustum to dilute the mustard, whereas the Romans used to use vinegar Acetum.
Mustard was also one of the earliest products to be used in medicine. Pythagoras praised it as an antidote to scorpion bites. Later, war wounds were treated with it. It was even believed that mustard protected against yellow fever epidemics.
In the 9th century Charlemagne recommended growing the spice in all of his estates. In the 17th century it was distributed to the poor of Dijon to protect them against chilblains (inflamed hands and feet as a result of the cold). Today mustard seeds are used in many preparations of preventive and natural medicine.
The 3 glorious dedicacies of Dijon...
Thriving in sunny conditions, the plant multiplies very quickly and is harvested hardly 2 months after dissemination. Ideal to restore the fertility of the ground, as its cultivation allows the soil to rest temporarily.
Of the forty different species of mustard, the most common are the Black mustard, the White, the Brown and the Dijon-Burgundy ones.
With Cream of Cassis and gingerbread, mustard is reputed to be one of the 3 glorious delicacies of Dijon.
Burgundy's chalky and densely wooded soil, rich in potassium and carbon has made possible the harvest of strong and piquant mustard seeds.
With the well earned reputation of fine gourmets, and the gastronomic knowledge and experience, the people of Burgundy were capable of making a condiment that soon became inseparably associated with the city of Dijon: the Dijon mustard.
A vinegar maker
The best Dijon mustard was the one that was ground with verjuice grape, which is a grape that is a little ripe and is more acidic. Already famous during the 13th century, Dijon mustard was sent to the provinces, dry or in flakes, and it was the user who use to dilute it with vinegar. This way it was able to conserve it for many years. It was in the 17th century that Dijon started to sell liquid mustard like the also renown Angers mustard.
Always present on the tables...
The name Moutarde de Dijon is reserved to mustards in paste made by sifted and sieved products. Always present on the tables of the Dukes of Burgundy, many barrels were regularly sent to the court of French kings, such as Louis XIV who never went anywhere without his mustard pot.
In the 18th century the mustard range was much wider than it is now.
There were lists of types of mustard, such as mustard powder, red mustard, fine mustard with anchovies and câpres, garlic mustard, lemon mustard, à la grecque, à la marquise, à la reine, with truffles, champagne mustard, rose mustard, and the list goes on and on…
Brown mustard
They also started using vinegar to dilute the seeds and that's why mustard making was adopted in Orléans too, as Orléans was a major producer of vinegar.
Many producers made both vinegar and mustard. Excellent mustards were also made in Bordeaux and many other towns of France.
Today, mustard is a condiment that is made and used all over the world, in many different ways and in many different recipes.
Authentic Dijon-style mustard however, must follow the original recipe established in Dijon.
White mustard
Some sayings...
To end it on a more spiritual note with mustard in general, here are a couple of sayings on the mustard seed:
« The kingdom of heaven is like a mustard seed that someone took and sowed in his field ; it is the smallest of all the seeds, but when it has grown it is the greatest of shrubs and becomes a tree, so that the birds of the air come and make nests in its branches.»
The Holly Bible.
« If you have faith the size of a mustard seed, you will say to this mountain, "Move from here to there," and it will move; and nothing will be impossible for you. »
The Holly Bible.
« He who has in his heart as much faith as a grain of mustard seed will not enter hell, and he who has in his heart as much pride as a grain of mustard seed will not enter paradise. »
(Sayings of Muhammad)
17 novembre 2007
The different types of Champagne... and how to read the labels
The different types of Champagne...
© CICV S.T.
...and how to read the labels
The categories of Champagne
The following are the six categories of Champagne, that are mentioned on the labels. The order in which they appear is not by order of the quality.
Vintage Year Champagne (Millésimé)
Every year can not be a vintage year. A vintage wine is special because it means that the year was a good year, even exceptional in terms of grapes and harvest. As usually Champagne is made by blending crus from different years, a vintage champagne is made of exclusively the year's harvest, and is matured at least 3 years before being reaching the market.
Prestige Vintage
(Cuvée de prestige)
It is the 'top' of the champagne producing house. It may or may not be vintage.
These vintages represent around 1% of the French consumption.
Les caves © Ph. Praliaud / CDT Aube
Blanc-de-blancs
Made only with white grapes (pure Chardonnay), it may also be called just Chardonnay. This gives a light, fresh wine in which in which are detectable the typical aromas of this grape variety, such as the grapefruit for example.
Blanc-de-noirs
Made by the red grape types (Pinot noir or Pinot Meunier), the Blanc-de-noirs are strong, complex and structured wines.
Brut (no year)
This is the blending of different grape varieties, different years and different vineyards. It is by far the largest production of Champagne types. The Champagne is matured for at least 15 months on the wooden panels before it is put up for sale.
Very often the quality of the house is judged by the quality of this "basic" Champagne.
Champagne Jacques Defrance - La cave
© Sedecs/Terroirs-of-France - M. Durman
Champagne rosé
This Champagne is usually mixed with a still red Champagne wine to obtain the required shade. This is a difficult operation as the red wine should not change the initial character of the cuvée. Another method used is by crushing the grapes followed by a maceration of the juice in contact with the skins of the grapes before pressing the grapes. This leads to the coloring and the flavor of a pink wine.
The vintages of Champagne
Although 250 wine-growing towns participate in the production of Champagne, there are only 17 grands crus (vintages).
The producers
Indicated in small capital letters at the bottom of the label.
N. M. : Négociant-Manipulant.
He makes or produces the wine. A brand of a négociant indicates a négociant-manipulant. M. A. : Marque d'Acheteur.
This is a secondary brand, found usually in supermarkets at lower prices because it is a less known wine, but not of a lesser quality.
R. M. : Récoltant-Manipulant.
He harvests and then produces the wines.
C. M. : Coopérative-Manipulante.
In the same way, he produces wine by the grapes harvested by others (members).
C. R. : Coopérateur-Récoltant.
He brings his grapes to be produced at the cooperation of which he is a member.
S. R. : Société de Récoltants.
It is a wine producers association.
Champagne grapes
Champagne boasts three grape varieties, and single-variety Champagnes are less common.
In most Champagnes, Pinot Meunier contributes to immediate fruitiness; Chardonnay gives finesse, longevity and flavors ranging from citrus to the very strong toasty flavors of maturity; and Pinot Noir adds an appley fruitiness initially, and ages well towards red fruit flavors. The color of rosé Champagnes has to come from Pinot Noir.
Chardonnay :
This world-famous white grape has spread right across the world from its original home in Burgundy. It makes the most famous dry white wines in the world. Chardonnays range from simple, lemony, appley wines to rich, opulent ones with honey, hazelnut, toast, butter, pineapple flavors … Some, such as fine white Burgundies, age extremely well. Chardonnay is one of the three Champagne grapes types, and the only type in Blanc de Blancs Champagnes. Pinot Meunier :
A close variety of the Pinot Noir, this red grape is one of the Champagne trio. It makes white wine, since the juice is squeezed quickly off the colored skins. Very occasionally it is vinified on its own in the Marne Valley, where it can make very full-bodied Champagnes not without finesse.
Pinot Noir :
The grape of the great red Burgundies, Pinot Noir probably originated in Burgundy. It ripens early, producing ruby-colored wines with delicious savory raspberry aromas, with firm tannins and fine acidity, developing exceptional aromas as they age. Pinot Noir is an important Champagne grape variety, indispensable for rosé and blanc de noirs Champagnes.
Outside France, wine producers are beginning to master the Pinot Noir in New Zealand, Germany, the USA and Australia.
We would like to thank the CDT of Aube for the information provided.
31 octobre 2007
Champagne... The AOC and the region
Champagne...
...The AOC and the region
Champagne is known and appreciated worldwide, however when we talk of Champagne most think of the sparkling Champagne wines. Many forget that « Champagne » is first and foremost the region where these wines are exclusively produced.
Located 150 km North-East of Paris, the Champagne region includes more than 31,000 hectares of vineyard and is divided into 3 administrative regions; La Marne, L'Aube and La Haute-Marne. The northerly location, the harsh climate and the slopes of chalky soil give the wines of Champagne their inherent uniqueness.
31,000 hectares of vineyards...
Most well known brands are produced in the Marne area, around the Massif de Saint Thierry, the Valley of the Ardre, the Mountain of Rheims, the Valley of the Marne, the Côte des Blancs and the Sézanne Hills.
The département of Aube is known as the "other country of Champagne" with its 6,700 hectares of vineyards « La Côte des Bar », representing 22% of the Appellation of Champagne.
Strict rules are applied to meet the quality requirements of the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée, the AOC, which defines the production area such as precise delimitation of the vineyards, control of yield per hectare and guarantees that traditional methods are employed such as manual harvests, minimum ageing period, etc.
From the 5th to the 18th century, Rheims was where the coronation of the Kings took place. As Christianity and the influence of the church spread, considerable vineyards were donated to the monastic orders. In the eleventh century, when Crusaders who had entrusted their property to the church did not return, these monastic holdings were increased significantly.
The Benedictine monks had important eclectic powers and under their influence, the vineyards extended. They produced still, light-colored wines issued from the same grape types as the Burgundy reds: Pinot noir. Conditioned in barrels, these wines had the particularity to foam in the spring, hence they were called « Les vins du Diable ».
When shipped, these wines were immediately bottled at destination and they retained their sparkle. The early sparkling wines were therefore the result of an accident but it aroused the Champenois interest.
A monk named Dom Pérignon...
The first successful method of producing a deliberately sparkling wine were the result of the efforts of two monks cellar masters, Frère Jean Oudart of the abbey Saint-Pierre aux Monts de Châlons, and Dom Pérignon of the abbey of Saint Pierre d'Hautevillers, during the last quarter of the seventeenth century.
© Sedecs/Terroirs-of-France
The son of a clerk to the local judge at Saint-Menehould (a small town to the east of the Champagne region), Pierre Pérignon was just 28 when he was appointed cellar master at the Abbey of Hautvillers.
Often credited with inventing champagne while overseeing the vineyard of the monastery, it is likely that he was the first to teach blending skills in the Champagne region.
He also appears to have been the first person to successfully contain the local sparkling wine in reinforced glass bottles by sealing them with Spanish corks.
The principles established then, remain amongst the most important in the production of Champagne today. With " La méthode champenoise" (the champagne method) there are very strict rules and techniques applied for the production of Champagne. Only 3 types of grapes can be used, the Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. They should be handpicked, follow a certain pressing and a double fermentation process.
« La Méthode champenoise »...
Pressing
The grapes are pressed as soon they are harvested, in order to avoid any coloring of the juice. The pressing is gradual ; the first pressing (800 g) is to extract the juice of the « cuvée » (outer)part of the grape.
This gives a clear and balanced liquid, « the must », which is fruity and mellow.
The second pressing (1.6 Kg) presses the rest of the grape with its pips and green parts, called the « taille ». This second pressing gives out another type of juice, more acidic, which is later used in the assemblage stage to balance out the sweetness or the acidity of the wines.
First fermentation
The alcoholic fermentation, also known as the lactic bacterial fermentation, transforms the must into wine. This first fermentation takes about three weeks.
In the past it used to take place in oak barrels, today it is done in large metal tanks, known as the Vats.
Assemblage The technique of blending from various vineyards, vintages, and grape varieties to obtain a finished wine superior to any of its parts is called « assemblage » (blending); the wines are artfully blended by oenologists before being bottled.
It is by selecting wines with different aromatic qualities that the cellar master begins the blending process. His aim is to produce a champagne that truly reflects the «house style» with characteristics that he will seek to perpetuate throughout the years.
Champagne Jacques Defrance - Metal tanks
© Sedecs/Terroirs-of-France - M. Durman
The wine is then bottled, a liqueur made up of sweetened wines with fermenting agents/yeasts is added, capped with a stainless steel capsule and then laid head down on special wooden panels in caves where the temperature is about 10 degrees.
Second Fermentation
The alcoholic fermentation as this fermentation is known takes place here when the sugar is transformed into alcohol and carbonic gas and the yeast settles. Pressure increases in the bottle and deposits accumulate on the capsule. This « bubbling » stage is followed by a long ageing period in cellars, at least a year for the non vintage wines and three or more years for vintage wines. The bottles are turned gently on a daily basis, in order for the deposits to accumulate on the capsule.
Disgorgement
The most delicate operation of the whole process, the disgorgement is the technique by which the deposits are removed while the wine is left in the bottle. The neck of the bottle is plunged in a refrigerating solution and the capsule comes out with all the deposits.
The cellars © Ph. Praliaud / CDT Aube
Dosing
The final stage of the production is adding the dosing liqueur (sugar and champagne) to the wine in the bottle. This determines the type of wine, extra-dry, dry, medium dry, before covering it with the traditional cork and its wire. The pressure built in a bottle of Champagne is around 6 bars.
Next month we'll elaborate on the different types of Champagne and grapes as well as some hints of how to read the labels on the bottles of Champagne.
CHAMPAGNE
Magnum: 1.5 liters (two bottles)
Jeroboam: 3 liters (four bottles)
Rehoboam: 4.5 liters (six bottles)
Methuselah: 6 liters (eight bottles)
Salmanazar: 9 liters (12 bottles)
Balthazar: 12 liters (16 bottles)
Nebuchadnezzar: 15 liters (20 bottles)
We would like to thank the CDT of Aube for the information provided.
24 octobre 2007
Auvers sur Oise... "Journey in the days of the Impressionists"
Le Château d'Auvers-sur-Oise...
..."Journey in the days of the Impressionists"
On the shores of the Oise River, on the outskirts of a little village known as Auvers-sur-Oise, an elegant castle was built in the 17th century for an Italian banker.
Three centuries later, abandoned, the Château Lery (as it was known then), having given in to the harsh winters and storms, had lost all its sparkle. In the early eighties, the idea to restore this building started developing, with the aim to pay tribute to the painters who had marked this region in the heart of the valley of the Oise.
"A Journey in the days of the Impressionists"
The county Council of the Val d'Oise took in charge and financed this original project by Jean Saint-Bris. On the 2nd of May 1999, having recovered its splendor, the Château d'Auvers reopens its doors. "A Journey in the days of the Impressionists" is a unique and astonishing walk-through show covering one of the most appreciated artistic movements of all times. Using various technologies, a kaleidoscope of images, sensations and music, the walk-through shows represent many aspects of life at the time of the impressionists. It is a journey back in time.
The streets of Paris…
The people of the streets…
The street professions…
The Baron Haussmann transforms the capital. Large boulevards, parks and gardens are created. The banks of the Seine are built, the sewage system is restructured. The impressionists start painting the town, a change from the classical studio paintings. Manet paints the Tuileries, Renoir and Manet depict the bridges, Degas portrays the cafés, while Caillebotte from his balcony shows the gray and illuminated Paris, very often under the rain.
Private playtime… Love for sale…
The illicit atmosphere of Paris, red velvet-lined corridors, courtesans and prostitution, Nana posing for the artists, is just another aspect of the Parisian life of the time.
Fashion…
In this show, not only the splendor of the dresses of the period is displayed, but also all the related professions of an atelier de couture.
Spectacle...
In a "caf'conc", you will be seated in front of the stage where Yvette Guilbert comes to life followed by a French Cancan. You'll be part of the "Paris of shows".
Life in the cafés…
Discover life in the cafes, symbolized by Absinth the green fairy that inspired many painters, and also the many objects that are so much part of the café universe: games, jugs, Absinth glasses and spoons, fountains, newspapers, tobacco jars, etc.
Train station…
Symbol of modernity…
An invitation for a journey…
With huge metal frameworks, powerful locomotives, rails, smoke and noise, the station has fascinated painters, giving way to the greatest adventure of the 19th century painting. A train journey through time at 40 km per hour, with the masters of the canvas.
Seaside…
Countryside…
Riverside…
The joys of swimming in the sea, of lunches on the grass, or dancing in the open-air on the guinguettes are very much part of this period's leisure activities in nature.
Apart from the walk-through shows, The Château has 3 restaurants, and a boutique. There are also different workshops and special tours for groups or for students.
Moreover, it is possible to organize special professional or private events such as seminars, conferences or receptions at the Château d'Auvers.
Marla KING
27 septembre 2007
Armagnac... Secrets and recipes
Armagnac...
Secrets and recipes
As promised in our last issue, we complete the article about Armagnac with:
- The grape varieties
- How to read an Armagnac label
- Different ways to enjoy Armagnac
If you missed Part I.
The Grape Varieties (Les cépages)
Of the ten grape varieties (Cepages) authorized in Armagnac production, four in particular are mostly used:
1. UGNI-BLANC is the distillation variety par excellence. It produces acidic wines with low alcohol content which, after distillation, produces fine and high quality eaux-de-vie. The Ugni-blanc is equally adaptable to Bas-Armagnac and Armagnac-Tenarèze.
2. FOLLE BLANCHE is the best known. This is the historic variety which dominated the wine area before its destruction by phylloxera in 1878: it was then called piquepoult or "pinched lips". Folle Blanche produces fine eaux-de-vie, often found in white and young Armagnac.
3. BACO 22A is quite rare, and is a hybrid of Folle Blanche and Noah grapes. Invented by a teacher, Mr. Baco, after the phylloxera epidemic, this grape type has adapted well to the sandy soils of the Bas-Armagnac region. It gives to the eaux-de-vie, a round and suave character, and after a long ageing process, the aromas of ripe fruits.
4. COLUMBUS is very much present in production, Columbus is mostly appreciated in the Vins de Pays des Cotes de Gascogne. The distillation process of this grape variety is a well kept secret. Its fruity and spicy aromas are mostly appreciated in the blending process.
The other grape varieties such as the Clairette de Gascogne, the Jurançon blanc, Plant de Graisse, Meslier Saint Francois, the Mauzac Blanc and the Mauzac Rose are grown today on just a few hectares of land.
How to read an Armagnac label
To understand the labels on the Armagnac bottles, it is important to know the standard commercial names designated to Armagnacs depending on the length of time spent ageing in wood. In young Armagnac for example, The Three Stars means it is over 3 years old. V.S.O.P means over 5 years old, and the XO is for over 6 year olds.
These indications, with the exception of Vintages, refer to the age of the youngest eau-de-vie contained in the blend. An Hors d'Age Armagnac is a blend of eaux-de-vie, the youngest component of which, has been aged for over ten years. Sometimes the age is directly indicated: 15 years, 20 years, 30 years, etc…
Finally, the Vintage Armagnac (Millesime), which is specific to Armagnac, means that it is at least 10 year old and corresponds exclusively to the year of the crop indicated on the label (1934, 1965, 1976, etc…).
Today, Armagnac producers are moving towards simplification to make labels more readable and easier to understand. Their aim is to eventually end up with 2 categories: Armagnac for blends under 5 years and Old Armagnac for blends beyond 5 years.
Different ways to enjoy Armagnac
After last month's How to taste Armagnac, we have here a few suggestions of how to enjoy it.
The astonishing diversity of Armagnac enables it to harmoniously accompany an entire meal. Simply moderate the suggested doses and to serve a glass of water on the side. Considering the measures usually served, there is as much alcohol in 3 glasses of wine as in 3 glasses of Armagnac (preferably served in tulip or ball shaped glasses).
Armagnac as a digestive
Armagnac & chocolate: A marriage made in heaven.
Armagnac & cigars: The qualities of both depend on the local soil, geology, climate and craftsmen. Both can be chosen according to the time of day, meal, company and circumstances. Both reveal aromas and flavours, notwithstanding the pleasure that they give...
Armagnac & coffee: This combination places the accent on the aromas. The bitterness of the coffee "erases" the acidity of the eau-de-vie and reinforces its sense of fullness. An old Armagnac with fine aromas will prolong the delicious and fine flavours of a Kenyan coffee. A young and vigorous Armagnac merges well with the power of an Ethiopian coffee.
Armagnac as an aperitif
The white eau-de-vie, barely out of the still, is consumed naturally very fresh or with a dash of lemon. To a young Armagnac (VS, VSOP...) simply add a few ice cubes, a little sparking water or tonic water.
Floc de Gascogne, AOC since 1990, is a fruity fortified wine. White or rosé depending on the grape variety used, it is made by marrying fresh grape juice and Armagnac from the same estate. It is perfect as an aperitif and during meals.
Armagnac based liqueurs brighten up sparkling wine and the fruits in Armagnac (prunes, cherries, raspberries, oranges...) joyously punctuate a meal.
Armagnac as a "trou gascon"
In the middle of a meal as a "trou gascon" - a cold glass of Armagnac served with plum sorbet between courses.
Armagnac as a cocktail base
Armagnac also makes an excellent base cocktail ingredient:
Armagnac Orange
- Armagnac (1/5)
- Orange juice (4/5)
- A dash of grenadine syrup
Decorate with a slice of orange and a straw
Armagnac Tonic
- Armagnac (1/5)
- Schweppes (4/5)
Decorate with a slice of lemon
Le Torito
- Armagnac (1/7)
- Red Orangina (6/7)
Best served cool, but without ice
Armagnac & Brut Champagne
- Armagnac (1/8)
- Orange liqueur (1/8)
- Champagne frappé (6/8)
Pour the liqueur and Armagnac into a flute, mix, and fill with the Champagne.
Decorate with a Maraschino cherry
After dinner Armagnac
- Armagnac (3/5)
- Garden mint (1/5)
- Gin (1/5)
Shake the ingredients with ice and serve in cocktail glasses with a mint leaf
And last but not least…
White Armagnac, and its unparalleled fruitiness, is the perfect accompaniment for smoked salmon, cold cuts, foie gras and lemon tart.
Young Armagnac enlivens sauces, flambé shellfish, meat or cakes, and can be used as an original substitute for vinegar in salad seasonings. It goes well with herb cheeses such as Roquefort.
Old Armagnacs are ideal for sweet and sour dishes such as guinea fowl with peaches or breast of duck with honey. They are also delicious poured over desserts: black forest gateaux, tarte tatin, pear charlotte, orange conserve... the sugar of the dessert softens the vivacity of the eau-de-vie. 
Guess now you will appreciate this brandy much better…
We would like to thank the Bureau National Interprofessionnel de l'Armagnac for the information provided.
24 septembre 2007
Armagnac... the oldest French eau-de-vie
Armagnac...
...the oldest French eau-de-vie
In the heart of Gascony...
In the South West of France, between Bordeaux and Toulouse, in the heart of Gascony, Armagnac is produced by distilling white wine in a still and ageing for many years in oak barrels before bottling. It comes in blends, or, as is specific to Armagnac, in vintages.
Armagnac is a craft product, made in small quantities by vine growers and wine merchants who carry on the old traditional methods and techniques. The diversity of the local soils and grape varieties give to this eau-de-vie (brandy), a rich and distinct character, like that of its craftsmen and its natural environment. Armagnac is the oldest French eau-de-vie. Traces of its production and consumption go back to the 14th century.
Maybe even further back, when the Romans introduced the vine culture to this region. Later the Arabs brought the still, and the Celts introduced the barrels.
The name «Armagnac» derives from Herreman who was a knight of King Clovis (5th century). Herreman was granted the fiefdom of Gascony. The name is believed to have been Latinised and then distorted into «Armagnac» by local language.
Armagnac owes its commercial development to the Dutch. As the English had banned passage of any wine other than Bordeaux over the Garonne river, the Dutch had the idea of developing the distillation of Gascony wines in order to produce spirits, which were not covered by the embargo. So production increased, and to overcome the fluctuations in good and poor years, Armagnac was laid to age in oak barrels. This blend of oak and eau-de-vie revealed the roundness, aromatic intricacy and the colour if Armagnac.
The 40 virtues of Armagnac...
Whilst Armagnac is the oldest French spirit, it was originally consumed for its therapeutic qualities. Some historical documents attest to this, in particular a book dated around 1310 which is preserved in the archives of the Vatican. A man of the church, known as the Prior of Eauze and Saint Mont, Prior Vital Dufour had also pursued studies in medicine, and wrote:
" De Maitre Vital Dufour... a very useful book for maintaining health and keeping in good form... ":
" This water, if taken medically and soberly is said to have 40 virtues... It enlivens the spirit, consumed in moderation, recalls the past to memory, renders men joyous, preserves youth and retards senility... "
Recent scientific works show that this eau-de-vie does have known therapeutic capacities. Its properties are due to the wood tannins that results from the long ageing process in oak barrels. Another medical team has also just proved the protective role Armagnac in blood platelet clumping (one of the causes behind cardio-vascular illnesses).
Terroirs & Cépages
In Armagnac, there are several local soils, Bas-Armagnac, Armagnac-Ténarèze and Haut-Armagnac. They make up a vine leaf-shaped wine area which contains 15,000 hectares of vines planted across three counties: Gers, Landes and Lot-et-Garonne.
The diversity and adaptability of the local soils determine the grape varieties. Of the ten grape varieties authorised in Armagnac production, four in particular leave their imprint on the eau-de-vie: Ugni-blanc, Folle Blanche, Baco 22 A, Columbus.
Natural wine-making process
The grapes harvested in October are pressed, and the juice is fermented completely naturally with no oenological additives. The wine is generally acidic and low in alcohol; it therefore has the ability to preserve its freshness and aromas until distillation.
Distillation
Distillation takes place during the winter. The wine is often distilled on the estate, sometimes using a mobile distiller which moves from winery to winery to distil the vine growers' wine. It is also produced in distillation workshops by professional distillers and cooperative cellars. The essential part of Armagnac (approximately 95%) is obtained with a still which is very specific to this eau-de-vie: the continuous Armagnac still.. This is a pure copper apparatus, which was patented in 1818 and has since been adapted, modified, and improved by regional distillers. It genuinely forms part of the character of Armagnac. Double distillation is also used by some Armagnac houses who have remained very attached to it.
Ageing
Immediately after distillation, Armagnac is put to age in "casks": these are 400-litre oak barrels, mainly from the forests of Gascogny and Limousin. These casks are stored in wineries where the temperature and humidity are important to the quality of the ageing process. From then on, the cellar master supervises the development of his eaux-de-vie The eaux-de-vie remains in new casks until the wood materials are optimally dissolved. They are then transferred to older barrels to prevent excessive wood flavours from being infused in the Armagnac, and to continue its slow development: the woody substances are refined, the vanilla and prune aromas grow, the "maderization" character begins to appear, and the alcoholic content drops progressively through the evaporation of alcohol (which is "the angel's share"). The eau-de-vie takes a beautiful amber colour; later changing to mahogany.
Blends
When the Cellar Master considers the ageing sufficient, he begins "mixing": harmoniously blending various eaux-de-vie of different origins and ages. The alcohol content (minimum 40% by volume) can be obtained by progressively adding "petites eaux" made up of a mixture of distilled water and Armagnac.
Vintages
Vintages, specific to Armagnac, correspond exclusively to the year of the crop. Reduction is not practised here, because the ageing winery is humid, and the eaux-de-vie are sold at their natural degree of ageing, which generally falls between 40% and 48% by volume.. The Armagnac ceases to age once bottled. The bottle must be stored upright so that the alcohol does not reach the cork.
We continue this article in the next issue of our discovery column:
More about the grape varieties
How to read an Armagnac label
Different ways to enjoy Armagnac
We would like to thank the Bureau National Interprofessionnel de l'Armagnac for the information provided.
10 août 2007
Alsace... On the shores of the Rhine river
Alsace...
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© ADT du Haut-Rhin |
...On the shores of the Rhine river
About 400 km from Paris, north east of France on the borders of Germany and Switzerland, Alsace is the smallest of all the French regions. It is divided into 2 administrative departments, the Bas-Rhin (Lower Rhine) with its capital Strasbourg and the Haut-Rhin (Upper Rhine) the capital of which is Colmar.
Covering an area of 8280 km2, Alsace spreads out between the shores of the Rhine River and the Vosges Mountains. It has a diverse and rich landscape divided among its prairies, valleys, fir and beech forests, plains, mountaintops and vineyards.
Alsace offers its visitors a diverse nature and a rich human and technological heritage. It is famous for its beautiful towns and villages, and their charming houses with timber studs and the colorful and flowery balconies and windows.
La Route des Vins
It is a paradise for trekkers who will find unlimited tracks through the plains and cultivated lands, hills and vineyards, the Vosges Mountains and its fir forests. |
There are many traced routes and paths for those interested to discover the region on foot or on mountain bikes.
The most famous is "La route des vins d'Alsace" (the wine route of Alsace), which covers a track of 170 km passing through vineyards, forests, ruins of castles, ramparts, wine caves, roman churches and many more villages and towns.
The 3 major cities of Alsace are Strasbourg, Mulhouse, and Colmar. The intellectual cultural and financial capital of Alsace, Strasbourg is also the capital of the parliamentary institutions of Europe, including the European Court of Human Rights. The Cathedral, the symbol of Strasbourg, is one of the most beautiful ones in France and is a masterpiece of medieval architecture.
Mulhouse is the industrial and economic center of Alsace. Although the remains of its medieval past are rare (except for a tower or two), it attracts a lot of visitors for its museums. In fact after Paris, the most visited museums are here.
Colmar is the agricultural and winemaking town. Known as the capital of Alsace's wines, it is an important touristic center. Colmar is famous for its old districts, especially the old tanner's district which has been renovated to create one of the most picturesque areas, known today as "Petite Venise" (Little Venice).
For more details on Alsace visit our guide section.
30 juillet 2007
Mushroom museum... in Saumur
Mushroom museum...
© Sedecs/Terroirs-of-France/ M. Durman |
...one of the most visited sites in Saumur
Quite a unique place, the Mushroom museum of Saumur, was created in 1978 and received millions of visitors. It is one of the most visited sites in Saumur.
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The mushroom caves house the largest exhibition in Europe of wild mushrooms and fungi - over 200 species - and also produce a vast quantity of mushrooms to send all over the world, around 10 tons per year. Tufaceous limestone (TUFA) was formed from marine deposits over millions of years. TUFA was used for the construction of chateaux, abbeys and villages throughout most of the Loire valley. The extraction of the Tufa stone has created underground galleries. In the middle-ages a quarter of the population lived in these caves known as "troglodytes". |
| © Sedecs/Terroirs-of-France/ M. Durman |
Today, thousands of kilometers of these galleries have been put into different uses. A major part have been used for mushroom farming.
The conditions are ideal. The caves are dark, have a constant temperature of 15 degrees and the humidity level is over 90%. Mushrooms grow on a mixture of wheat straw and manure (horse droppings), well available in Saumur, the town being one of the capitals of horsemanship. Today 70% of French production comes from Saumur area, that is about 500 tons a day. France is the 4th major producer of mushrooms after the U.S, China and Holland. Mushroom production is quite delicate and requires the know-how of a mushroom grower.
The museum displays the various stages of the production of Saumur's famous champignons de Paris (button mushrooms) plus some more exotic varieties as well, like Oyster mushrooms, shii-take or wood blewits. |
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© Sedecs/Terroirs-of-France/ M. Durman |
In Saumur, the culture of mushroom is done in metal containers, in two superimposed vats. The culture in wooden vats was abandoned, as the wood generated bacteria. The vats must be regularly emptied and the mushroom bed cleansed. The first three weeks the mushrooms push in groups, then they are detached from each other. The wider the mushroom head the tastier the mushroom.
The visit starts with a display of a number of fossils found in the rocks, a |